Glacier Bay National Park Guide: Best Activities, When to Visit & Where to Stay

Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve protects 3.3 million acres of tidewater glaciers, temperate rainforest, rugged coastline, and snow-capped mountains in southeastern Alaska. The park encompasses one of the most dramatic examples of glacial retreat and ecological succession visible anywhere on Earth. When Captain George Vancouver sailed through Icy Strait in 1794, Glacier Bay did not exist. The entire bay was filled by a massive glacier, a wall of ice over 4,000 feet thick and 20 miles wide. In the two centuries since, that glacier has retreated over 65 miles, one of the fastest and most well-documented glacial retreats in recorded history, uncovering a bay that is now a complex fjord system stretching deep into the Fairweather Range.

The retreating ice left behind bare rock that has been progressively colonized by life. Near the glacier faces at the upper end of the bay, the landscape is raw and recently deglaciated, with only pioneer species like mosses, fireweed, and dryas taking hold. Moving down the bay toward the mouth, the plant communities become progressively more mature, transitioning from alder thickets to spruce forest to the dense Sitka spruce and western hemlock rainforest near Bartlett Cove, which has had over 200 years to develop since the ice retreated. This gradient of ecological succession, visible in a single boat journey up the bay, makes Glacier Bay a living laboratory for understanding how ecosystems rebuild after glaciation.

The park is also a marine wilderness of extraordinary richness. Humpback whales feed in the nutrient-rich waters during summer, their breaches and bubble-net feeding displays among the most spectacular wildlife encounters in Alaska. Steller sea lions haul out on rocky islets. Harbor seals rest on floating icebergs calved from tidewater glaciers. Sea otters float in kelp beds. Tufted puffins and thousands of other seabirds nest on the outer coast. Brown bears and black bears forage along the shorelines. Mountain goats cling to the steep slopes above the fjords.

Best Activities

Tidewater Glacier Viewing - The primary experience at Glacier Bay is witnessing the tidewater glaciers that calve enormous chunks of ice into the sea. The park contains seven active tidewater glaciers, with Margerie Glacier and Grand Pacific Glacier at the head of Tarr Inlet being the most frequently visited. Margerie Glacier rises 250 feet above the waterline and extends another 100 feet below the surface. The thunderous crack and roar of calving ice, followed by the splash and resulting waves, is an unforgettable experience. Viewing is by tour boat, cruise ship, or kayak.

Kayaking the Bay - Sea kayaking in Glacier Bay offers an intimate experience of the fjords, glaciers, and wildlife that cannot be matched from a larger vessel. Paddlers can explore the Beardslee Islands near Bartlett Cove for sheltered day trips, or embark on multi-day expeditions up the bay to the tidewater glaciers. The park concessionaire operates a day boat that can drop kayakers and their gear at various points up the bay, allowing one-way paddle trips back to Bartlett Cove. Camping along the shoreline is permitted with a free backcountry permit. Iceberg-filled waters near glacier faces require caution.

Whale Watching - Humpback whales are present in Glacier Bay and Icy Strait from May through September, with peak numbers in June through August. The park carefully manages vessel traffic to protect the whales, limiting the number of boats permitted in the bay each day. Bubble-net feeding, in which groups of whales work together to herd fish into a concentrated ball before lunging through the surface with mouths agape, is regularly observed and is one of the great wildlife spectacles in the world. Orcas, minke whales, and Dall's porpoises are also seen.

Day Boat Tour - The park concessionaire operates a daily catamaran tour from Bartlett Cove up the west arm of the bay to the tidewater glaciers, covering approximately 130 miles round trip in eight to nine hours. Park rangers provide narration throughout the journey, interpreting the geology, ecology, and history of the bay. The boat pauses at glacier faces for extended viewing and searches for whales, bears, and sea lions along the way. This is the most accessible way for independent travelers to experience the full length of the bay.

Hiking at Bartlett Cove - The park's only maintained trails are near the Bartlett Cove developed area. The Forest Trail is a 1-mile loop through old-growth Sitka spruce and western hemlock rainforest with interpretive signs explaining the ecological succession process. The Bartlett River Trail is a 2.5-mile round trip to the Bartlett River estuary, where bears fish for salmon in late summer. The Point Gustavus Beach Walk follows the shoreline for 8 miles to Point Gustavus, offering excellent beachcombing and whale watching from shore.

Cruise Ship Visits - Large cruise ships enter Glacier Bay daily during summer under a permit system that limits entries to protect wildlife and the acoustic environment. Passengers experience the bay from the ship's deck, with park rangers boarding to provide interpretation. While not as intimate as kayaking or small boat touring, the cruise ship experience provides access to the upper bay and glacier faces for visitors who may not be prepared for backcountry travel.

When to Visit

May (Early Season) - The park opens for the season in mid-May. Snow lingers at higher elevations, and some upper-bay areas may still have significant ice. Whale numbers are building. Bird migration is underway, with large numbers of shorebirds and waterfowl passing through. Visitor numbers are low, and the day boat tour may not yet be running daily. Temperatures range from 40 to 55 degrees.

June (Early Summer) - Longer days bring up to 18 hours of daylight. The forests and meadows are lush and green, wildflowers bloom, and wildlife activity intensifies. Humpback whales are arriving in increasing numbers. Mountain goats with kids are visible on upper slopes. The day boat tour runs daily. This is an excellent time to visit with moderate crowds and good wildlife viewing.

July to Mid-August (Peak Season) - The warmest and busiest period, with temperatures reaching the low 60s on good days. All services are fully operational. Whale watching is at its peak. Bears are visible along salmon streams by late July. Cruise ships are most frequent during this window. Kayaking conditions are generally favorable, though rain remains common. Icebergs from active calving create dramatic scenery near glacier faces.

Late August to Mid-September (Late Season) - Bear activity increases as salmon runs peak. Fall color begins appearing in the understory. Whale numbers start to decline as animals begin their southward migration. Cruise ship visits decrease. Weather becomes more unsettled, with increased rain and cooler temperatures. The season winds down by mid-September, with the lodge and most services closing.

Where to Stay

Glacier Bay Lodge - The only lodge within the park, located at Bartlett Cove. This comfortable lodge offers rooms with forest or water views, a dining room featuring local seafood, and a cozy common area. The lodge serves as the hub for day boat tours, kayak rentals, and ranger programs. It is open from late May through early September and fills quickly, so early reservations are essential.

Camping at Bartlett Cove - The park's only developed campground is a free, walk-in campground near Bartlett Cove with tent sites in the forest. A warming shelter with a wood stove, bear-proof food storage, and a cooking area are provided. The campground operates on a first-come basis, but campers must attend a brief orientation at the visitor center before setting up camp.

Backcountry Camping - Visitors with a free backcountry permit can camp anywhere along the shoreline of Glacier Bay above the high tide line. Kayakers and backpackers typically select sites on beaches or grassy areas accessible by water. Bear-resistant food canisters are required and can be borrowed from the visitor center. Campfires are permitted below the high tide line only.

Gustavus - The small community of Gustavus, located just outside the park, offers several bed and breakfasts, inns, and vacation rentals. Annie Mae Lodge, Bear Track Inn, and the Gustavus Inn are among the options, offering comfortable rooms and meals featuring local seafood and garden produce. Gustavus has a distinctly small-town Alaska character, with a population of roughly 450 people.

Getting There

By Air to Gustavus - Alaska Airlines operates daily jet service from Juneau to Gustavus Airport (GST) during summer, a 25-minute flight. Smaller charter operators also fly the route year-round. From Gustavus Airport, a shuttle or lodge-operated transport takes visitors the 10 miles to Bartlett Cove. Some visitors charter floatplanes directly to remote areas of the bay.

By Ferry - The Alaska Marine Highway ferry system operates service from Juneau to Gustavus several times per week during summer. The ferry ride takes approximately four and a half hours through scenic Lynn Canal and Icy Strait. Vehicle transport is available but not necessary, as Gustavus has limited roads.

By Cruise Ship - Many visitors experience Glacier Bay as part of an Inside Passage cruise. Ships enter the bay under the park's permit system, spending a full day in the park with ranger interpretation. Passengers do not disembark at Bartlett Cove on most cruises.

From Juneau - The state capital, Juneau, is the primary staging city, accessible by air from Anchorage, Seattle, and other cities. There are no roads connecting Juneau to the rest of Alaska's highway system. Most park visitors pass through Juneau.

Essential Tips

• Rain is nearly constant. Glacier Bay receives 70 to 80 inches of precipitation annually, and rain can occur on any day of the year. Waterproof rain gear, including jacket, pants, and pack cover, is essential. Quick-drying layers are preferable to cotton.
• Bear safety applies everywhere. Both brown bears and black bears are present throughout the park. Store all food in bear-resistant containers in the backcountry. Keep a clean camp, cook away from your tent, and carry bear spray.
• Hypothermia is a year-round risk. Cold water temperatures in the bay (typically 35 to 45 degrees) make capsizing in a kayak a life-threatening event. Wear a dry suit or wetsuit when kayaking, and practice self-rescue techniques before venturing into open water.
• Private boats require a permit to enter Glacier Bay during the summer season. Permits are free but limited in number and should be requested 60 days in advance through the park.
• Book the day boat tour early. The daily catamaran tour to the glaciers is the park's signature experience and sells out well in advance during peak season. Reserve as soon as your travel dates are confirmed.
• No entrance fee is charged at Glacier Bay National Park.

Nearby Attractions

Juneau - Alaska's capital city offers the Mendenhall Glacier, accessible by road from downtown, where a visitor center overlooks the glacier and an iceberg-dotted lake. The Tongass National Forest surrounding Juneau provides excellent hiking, including the Perseverance Trail and Mount Roberts Tramway. Juneau's downtown features the Alaska State Museum, galleries, and a vibrant waterfront.

Icy Strait Point - Located in the Tlingit village of Hoonah, 35 miles from Glacier Bay, Icy Strait Point offers whale watching excursions, wildlife viewing, a cultural center, and the world's largest zipline. The waters off Point Adolphus, near the entrance to Glacier Bay, are considered one of the best whale watching locations in Southeast Alaska.

Elfin Cove - A tiny, roadless fishing village on the outer coast of Chichagof Island, accessible only by boat or floatplane. The village sits on a boardwalk above the water and offers sport fishing charters in some of the richest waters in Alaska. The setting is quintessential remote Southeast Alaska.

Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park - Across the border in British Columbia, this park protects the Tatshenshini and Alsek rivers, which originate near Glacier Bay and flow through some of the most dramatic river canyons in North America. Multi-day rafting expeditions on these rivers are considered among the finest wilderness river trips in the world.